Please give me a solution
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Please give me a solution
Hi, Iam sethu... Iam in Dubai. Iam having two indian ring neck parrots a male and a female..I recently bought them. They are intelligent but they are not friendly with me..I can not take them out of the cage. I want to take them along with me and I want them to be verymuch friendly with me.And some times they are fighting with each other and biting each other ...female is always starting the fight.. male is good and always wants to be freindly with the female...next time i will post their pis.. please give me a solution
Iam having 2 indian ring neck parrots a male and female.I love them. They sometimes bite eachothers.I need a solution to make them friendly and to breed
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A:
You must cage them seperately. For many reasons.
B:
You must pay each of them one-on-one attention EVERYDAY even if it means your bleeding a bit here and there. Takes a million bites and weeks/months of patience sometimes to even get an IRN to trust, much less step up.
C:
You must sit near the CAGES, not cage because they MUST be caged seperately if you want a friendly-tame bird. If not, they bond together and have no need whatsoever for you. While sitting there, you talk as you would a child, move slowly, have the door open. Offer treats after the bird can tolerate you being near the cage without being nervous.
D:
What is the history of your birds, then we could better help you in how to tame those suckers. IRN's are not the best pet for the timid. You have to be so in love that you are willing to get bitten to bleed or youre not going to get far.
I had the meanest baby ever hatched, ask around. As I would try to dropper feed her, she would try to eat me alive at 4 weeks old. Now, she is the sweetest punkin in the world. I have scars, yes. But every bite was worth all the kisses, and undying love they have for you IF you get them to love you.
These birds MUST BE HANDLED EVERY DAY. This is not negotiable. Even if it means you losing a few fingers. If you cant commit to something like this, perhaps its better to learn early on.
In fact, vacations? What are those? IRN owners forget because we cant leave our babies and trust the keeper will handle them daily. If not, you come back to a bird you dont even know.
Im not one to sugar-coat so there ya have it.
You must cage them seperately. For many reasons.
B:
You must pay each of them one-on-one attention EVERYDAY even if it means your bleeding a bit here and there. Takes a million bites and weeks/months of patience sometimes to even get an IRN to trust, much less step up.
C:
You must sit near the CAGES, not cage because they MUST be caged seperately if you want a friendly-tame bird. If not, they bond together and have no need whatsoever for you. While sitting there, you talk as you would a child, move slowly, have the door open. Offer treats after the bird can tolerate you being near the cage without being nervous.
D:
What is the history of your birds, then we could better help you in how to tame those suckers. IRN's are not the best pet for the timid. You have to be so in love that you are willing to get bitten to bleed or youre not going to get far.
I had the meanest baby ever hatched, ask around. As I would try to dropper feed her, she would try to eat me alive at 4 weeks old. Now, she is the sweetest punkin in the world. I have scars, yes. But every bite was worth all the kisses, and undying love they have for you IF you get them to love you.
These birds MUST BE HANDLED EVERY DAY. This is not negotiable. Even if it means you losing a few fingers. If you cant commit to something like this, perhaps its better to learn early on.
In fact, vacations? What are those? IRN owners forget because we cant leave our babies and trust the keeper will handle them daily. If not, you come back to a bird you dont even know.

Im not one to sugar-coat so there ya have it.
~ Mikaela Sky


Most of what mikaela is saying is right. If you do separate them then u need to keep them apart i.e. don’t let them congregate/communicate until at least 1 of them becomes friendly make need you when you feed them feed them fresh fruit and veg with a few seeds biscuits etc and save most the peanuts and sunflower seed for treats. do they let you near the cage?
But if you want to breed them you should move them into an aviary or a bigger cage with a breeding box then you could tame the offspring. Its ok that the female is aggressive towards the male its in their nature but they make the best pets by fare they are loyal to their favourite people unlike the male who will go to any 1 willing to take him. Even when she accepts him she will still bite him now and then to let him know who’s boss.
But if you want to breed them you should move them into an aviary or a bigger cage with a breeding box then you could tame the offspring. Its ok that the female is aggressive towards the male its in their nature but they make the best pets by fare they are loyal to their favourite people unlike the male who will go to any 1 willing to take him. Even when she accepts him she will still bite him now and then to let him know who’s boss.
i have a similar problem
as u know i have a green ringneck and he is not friendly he runs away from me but does take treats from my hand. but if im near his cage u see hsi heart beating faster n faster. what i am saying is how should i gain his trust without giving him a heart attack. please help.
UPDATE
Now I have changed the male to another cage and they are near to each other and they are looking at each others always. This male is giveng some small noise to the female and the female eye balls goes small I dont know what is that sign. when i go near the cage both of them are not looking at me they just go and hang on the side of the cage and showing the back to me. I went to the same pet shop and asked for its history they told its 8 months old. now i bought a hand glove to put my hand inside the cage to take their bites.
for any comments please info.
for any comments please info.
Iam having 2 indian ring neck parrots a male and female.I love them. They sometimes bite eachothers.I need a solution to make them friendly and to breed
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No gloves... sorry hun. If only it were that easy.
Gloves will only set you back, trust me.
As all of us sit here and type with sore and scared hands, so will you if you ever want their trust.
There is no easy way. You just have to get a bite, own it as a part of life for a short time and show the birds you are not scared of them, you are only there to help them.
Imagine a glove coming into your bedroom after you, the size of King Kong.
The whole purpose is to get them to trust YOU and YOUR hands.
Gloves will only set you back, trust me.
As all of us sit here and type with sore and scared hands, so will you if you ever want their trust.
There is no easy way. You just have to get a bite, own it as a part of life for a short time and show the birds you are not scared of them, you are only there to help them.
Imagine a glove coming into your bedroom after you, the size of King Kong.
The whole purpose is to get them to trust YOU and YOUR hands.
~ Mikaela Sky


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Sorry Mikaela I disagree.
I have wild aviary ringnecks and I caught them with my bare hands and they took chunks out of my fingers.. Now I dont reccomend this. It's a little crazy to voluntarily give your hand to a bird so it can chomp the crap outta you. I didnt have a net at the time so I just took the bites.
My point is this use gloves if you need to. Getting the bird trained is more important than it being scared of hands gloved or not. Once it's trained with the gloves then you can worry about getting it used to your hands. If you train it to step up onto gloves using a "step up" command issuing the same command to an ungloved hand would make sense as well.
I have wild aviary ringnecks and I caught them with my bare hands and they took chunks out of my fingers.. Now I dont reccomend this. It's a little crazy to voluntarily give your hand to a bird so it can chomp the crap outta you. I didnt have a net at the time so I just took the bites.
My point is this use gloves if you need to. Getting the bird trained is more important than it being scared of hands gloved or not. Once it's trained with the gloves then you can worry about getting it used to your hands. If you train it to step up onto gloves using a "step up" command issuing the same command to an ungloved hand would make sense as well.
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You know your Bird.
I have heard and seen gloves work well and I have seen them cause troubles also. I think, simply, that you know your bird, try what you need to, just pay close attention to the affect on your bird. Its easy to tell if a bird is fluttering from something new, or panicking in total fear.
Kai hates hats, of any kind, not just flutters, he panicks!
I have heard and seen gloves work well and I have seen them cause troubles also. I think, simply, that you know your bird, try what you need to, just pay close attention to the affect on your bird. Its easy to tell if a bird is fluttering from something new, or panicking in total fear.

Angie
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Hatred stirs up strife, But love covers all sins. {Pro 10:12}
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God Bless

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Hatred stirs up strife, But love covers all sins. {Pro 10:12}
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God Bless

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In my personal experience, it only set the training process back.
I took the glove off and took the bites.
To each their own.
Here is an old thread when I was a new Mommie, the decision is yours. I chose to take the bites, you will have to eventually anyway.
Baby bites are alot better than other bites.
http://www.indianringneck.com/board/vie ... ght=gloves
Hats and red shirts do Baby in, she cant tolerate it.
I took the glove off and took the bites.
To each their own.
Here is an old thread when I was a new Mommie, the decision is yours. I chose to take the bites, you will have to eventually anyway.
Baby bites are alot better than other bites.
http://www.indianringneck.com/board/vie ... ght=gloves
Hats and red shirts do Baby in, she cant tolerate it.
~ Mikaela Sky


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With most animals there are two choices when faced with a life/death situation. FIGHT or FLIGHT. With birds the flight is literal with other animals its compared to running away. The primary response n all birds is the latter and they fly away.
Clipped birds fall back on the fight (aka bite) response if they know they cant fly away. Some clipped birds launch themselves off things regardless,
I deal with flighted birds so they always go with the flight response unless they are grabbed, no flight then so they bite. Since grabbing the bird doesnt gain its trust any. I hardly come into contact with the fight (bite) response.
Consequently my methods of dealing with birds are different.
Clipped birds fall back on the fight (aka bite) response if they know they cant fly away. Some clipped birds launch themselves off things regardless,
I deal with flighted birds so they always go with the flight response unless they are grabbed, no flight then so they bite. Since grabbing the bird doesnt gain its trust any. I hardly come into contact with the fight (bite) response.
Consequently my methods of dealing with birds are different.
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My IRN absolutely hates gloves, when he sees them he screams, we do not use gloves on him anymore but have to on our cockateil. If Ringo even sees a glimpse of gloves being used on our cockatiel he screams so now we have to cover his cage if we need to use gloves. My best situation is NOT to use gloves. I am still taming Ringo and have not got as far as step up yet i think mainly cos i am scared to get bitten.... (which i know is wrong) my husband says just let him bite but i hate blood and need to get over that first....and he will not entertain the perch training so it has to be my hand!!!!! any advice?????????????
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My best peice of advice is this.. Have a small rope toy with you and if you see that beak open and come towards you shove said rope toy into the birds beak. Bird bites toy not you and you can attempt what your doing with at least a chance you wont get bitten for a few more seconds at the least..
One technique I use is if the bird bites say my finger or a toy and latches on. I pull up and and turn my hand under the bird. It has the effect of the bird stepping up onto my hand. Now my birds dont bite *that* hard so my finger is ok. If they bit hard enough to draw blood I would use a toy.
The birds beak is busy chomping the decoy and I can get my finger underneath them to step up.
One technique I use is if the bird bites say my finger or a toy and latches on. I pull up and and turn my hand under the bird. It has the effect of the bird stepping up onto my hand. Now my birds dont bite *that* hard so my finger is ok. If they bit hard enough to draw blood I would use a toy.
The birds beak is busy chomping the decoy and I can get my finger underneath them to step up.
SAD STORY
MY MALE BIRD RAN AWAY. WHEN WE WERE OUT TO WORK IT OPENED TEH CAGE AND WENT THRU THE VENTILATOR AT THE KITCHEN. NOW IAM MISSING THE MALE.. IT OPENED TEH FEMALE CAGE ALSO BUT THAT ONE STAYED. NOW MY CAGE IS ALWAYS OPEN FOR THE FEMALE AND ITS NOT GOING OUT.
Iam having 2 indian ring neck parrots a male and female.I love them. They sometimes bite eachothers.I need a solution to make them friendly and to breed