URGENT! new to indian ringnecks and bad experience

[arwen_00]

Hi all,

We just had an indian ringneck, as the seller said the parrot is around 4-5 months old. I will tell a bit more detail to get right advices. We got her/him in a small cage and it took 4 days to get a big cage. As you all know that they are very clever and our parrot found the way to escape from her/him from small cage on the second day. We let her/him go around in the living room almost all day and did not force her/him to do anything. However, at the end of the day he/she really did not tend to go back the cage then we made her/him tired by pushing her/him to fly then put a towel on her/him to catch. OK finally we put it in the cage in our first attempt. I know they are really sensitive but we had no chance. I searched and found out that they need to spend at least 2-3 week in the cage when they move to a new place. Since she/he came we even cannot go close to the cage. It does not make any sound at all. In the small cage it was biting the cage bars (seemed like it was trying to escape again i guess this is because the cage was too small). Now she/he has a new very big cage with lots of toys but it does not play with them. She/he is eating, drinking water and then sleeping and also biting the cage bars. We really do not know how to approach her/him. I also attach the photos of her/him.
I appreciate any advice on this.

[MissK]

Hi. Others can advise you better, but in seeing the photo, this doesn't look very much like a baby to me. I never had a baby, so might be wrong there. However, grown birds are very nice, too, and babies do grow up anyway.

I understand why you had to chase and catch the bird in the towel. Do not do that any more unless you must do it to protect the bird's life. This bird isn't going to like that, and it will harm the trust between you. Please do not clip the wings, as this seems likely to promote defensive biting.

Please let us know how long the bird has been in your home, and what exactly happens when you try to go near the cage. Make sure the cage is against the wall so the bird has a feeling of safety. If the bird can tolerate a cover on the cage, it might be a kindness to drape a cotton cloth so it covers a little of the top and a corner, to make a little shelter. If the bird doesn't like this, then don't do it. Make sure there is a perch high up in the cage, and let that be your bird's safe refuge.

If you can give more information about the way the bird behaves in different situations it would be helpful. I would suggest your first priority is to discover what the bird loves to eat and try to offer that food through the cage bars by hand. Make it so the bird can choose to come to you if it wants - do not go reaching the food towards the bird. You should spend quiet time in the same room so the bird can observe you. You should eat where the bird can watch you, and be sure you have provided the bird some food to eat at the same time. As the bird watches you and sees you having a meal, if can see you are not threatening. Also communal eating is a natural parrot activity that may help the bird see you as part of the same group.

Best wishes! The people here at the forum will try to help you as best we can. Congratulations on your new bird.

[arwen_00]

Hi. Others can advise you better, but in seeing the photo, this doesn't look very much like a baby to me. I never had a baby, so might be wrong there. However, grown birds are very nice, too, and babies do grow up anyway.

I understand why you had to chase and catch the bird in the towel. Do not do that any more unless you must do it to protect the bird's life. This bird isn't going to like that, and it will harm the trust between you. Please do not clip the wings, as this seems likely to promote defensive biting.

Please let us know how long the bird has been in your home, and what exactly happens when you try to go near the cage. Make sure the cage is against the wall so the bird has a feeling of safety. If the bird can tolerate a cover on the cage, it might be a kindness to drape a cotton cloth so it covers a little of the top and a corner, to make a little shelter. If the bird doesn't like this, then don't do it. Make sure there is a perch high up in the cage, and let that be your bird's safe refuge.

If you can give more information about the way the bird behaves in different situations it would be helpful. I would suggest your first priority is to discover what the bird loves to eat and try to offer that food through the cage bars by hand. Make it so the bird can choose to come to you if it wants - do not go reaching the food towards the bird. You should spend quiet time in the same room so the bird can observe you. You should eat where the bird can watch you, and be sure you have provided the bird some food to eat at the same time. As the bird watches you and sees you having a meal, if can see you are not threatening. Also communal eating is a natural parrot activity that may help the bird see you as part of the same group.

Best wishes! The people here at the forum will try to help you as best we can. Congratulations on your new bird.

Thanks a lot for your quick reply MissK. He is so important for us, we are really worried for him.
Yes we are thinking the same as well, he is not for 4-5 months old. We did not know how they look and we got him from pet4homes. The seller told that the bird is to be a male and 4-5 months old. (possibly she fooled us :/)It has been 4 days that the bird is with us. When we try to go near the cage he moves away from us sometime he goes to upper corners of the cage or climb the cage bars. We even cannot offer food because again he gets scared. We still leave the food (a few times we tried offering fruits or vegetables) but he even does not care. The cage is next the wall on the small cabinet in the living room and we spend most of our time here. When we get in the room we whistle not to scare him. Now we try a new trick, when we try to go near the cage we are talking to him and get closer and closer, whenever he moves to show that he is scared we go back and try to approach him sometime later. When he first came he was scared for any noise heard but now he seems getting a bit relax, (for instance now he is sleeping and if I make noise, he does not move or look around- but he sill opens his eyes and check). In his previous cage Mojo (his name) had a mirror, when we talked to him he always went to behind that mirror, like hiding. Now the mirror is a bit higher and he cannot do that but we realised he sometimes climbs and looks at the mirror and acts like he is kissing the mirror. So far he did not sing naturally, only once we have been watching videos about the ringnecks and he heard a ringneck singing and he sang and more importantly he moved to the front edge of the cage and started biting the bars like showing he really wanted to go out. His current cage is very big having three perches one of which is high up in the cage, a swing, ladder, mirror and other two toys. We have been reading about how to tame and treat our bird since we had him, and people suggest to keep your bird in the cage at least for 3-4 weeks. Then, to teach to get near the cage without scaring him and then offering food and finally teaching him to step our hand and leave him out fro the cage. Do you think this is the right way?

For now this is all I can say...I really appreciate any advice because we do not want to lose his trust and we really want to make him happy. Maybe he was not treated well in his previous house and because of that he behaves like that. We are hoping we can change this..

Best wishes,
Arwen.

[MissK]

Arwen, I believe four days may be not enough time for the bird to relax in the new home yet. If she/he is eating, however, I would not worry. You put fresh paper in the bottom of the cage, then put in the water and food, then give the bird some privacy to eat if it is afraid to eat in front of you. You check the paper on the bottom to see if the food has been eaten and the bird makes poop. If it will not eat vegetables, you offer seeds and maybe pellets, maybe fruit, maybe grains like corn or oatmeal with nothing in it but the oats. Let me know if you need a picture of any of these foods to understand. Do not give onion, avocado, or prepared human food, though some small bit of bread might be OK as a treat. It does not matter what the bird eats to start with; the important thing is that it eats something. Would it bother you very much if your bird turned out to be a female?

This part sounds very good:

The cage is next the wall on the small cabinet in the living room and we spend most of our time here. When we get in the room we whistle not to scare him. Now we try a new trick, when we try to go near the cage we are talking to him and get closer and closer, whenever he moves to show that he is scared we go back and try to approach him sometime later. When he first came he was scared for any noise heard but now he seems getting a bit relax,

I might suggest when you must go to the cage that maybe you walk gently but with some sound, and look at the ground, until the bird relaxes. Be sure to bring a very good treat and place it in the cage every time. You can drop it in the bowl or wedge it in the bars. This way you will not look like you are stalking the bird, and it will see every time you come it gets a treat.

I don't know what to tell you about the mirror. Some birds do well with a mirror and others get a little strange because of it. It won't hurt to remove it for a little while, just in case. I think it would be a good idea to play those other birds for Mojo from time to time to help him/her feel there is some company, until he/she learns that you are the flock. I do think that if your bird want to hide behind something that you should accommodate it. Everyone needs a place to feel safe.

We have been reading about how to tame and treat our bird since we had him, and people suggest to keep your bird in the cage at least for 3-4 weeks. Then, to teach to get near the cage without scaring him and then offering food and finally teaching him to step our hand and leave him out fro the cage. Do you think this is the right way?

I think that you should be able to approach the cage in shorter time than several weeks. You can discover how close you can go without upsetting the bird, and mark that spot on the floor. Then you approach that close, stay a while, and retreat. Shorten the distance in very small steps. (If you decide to use a clicker, this is a perfect time, though it would be best if you could teach an association of treats with the clicker first. Hard to do if the bird is afraid of you.)

I would not let the bird out of the cage until it will go to a food lure. You don't have to be with the food. This is so you can place food in the cage to get the bird to go back home on its own. At the same time, I would try to reach this point as soon as possible so you lessen the chance the bird becomes afraid to leave the cage. I would not wait until the bird will step up for this. Another way to promote the bird going back home is to reduce the lights and make it seem like twilight. Do not put the lights totally out and then grab the bird, however, as some will advise. That is a good way to scare your bird to death!

Please be patient for another week, continue the nice things you are already doing, remove the mirror, and keep us informed. Figure out what food your bird loves. Some of the most popular foods are Sunflower seeds, nuts, corn.

[arwen_00]

Arwen, I believe four days may be not enough time for the bird to relax in the new home yet. If she/he is eating, however, I would not worry. You put fresh paper in the bottom of the cage, then put in the water and food, then give the bird some privacy to eat if it is afraid to eat in front of you. You check the paper on the bottom to see if the food has been eaten and the bird makes poop. If it will not eat vegetables, you offer seeds and maybe pellets, maybe fruit, maybe grains like corn or oatmeal with nothing in it but the oats. Let me know if you need a picture of any of these foods to understand. Do not give onion, avocado, or prepared human food, though some small bit of bread might be OK as a treat. It does not matter what the bird eats to start with; the important thing is that it eats something. Would it bother you very much if your bird turned out to be a female?
No I do not mind the bird's gender, as long as she/he is happy we are happy I know these food types, I will try them as well thanks. Today my husband first ate kiwi near the cage and then put some kiwi in a small plate in the cage. Mojo after sometime went there and started eating them. We later saw that it eats when we in the room.


This part sounds very good:

The cage is next the wall on the small cabinet in the living room and we spend most of our time here. When we get in the room we whistle not to scare him. Now we try a new trick, when we try to go near the cage we are talking to him and get closer and closer, whenever he moves to show that he is scared we go back and try to approach him sometime later. When he first came he was scared for any noise heard but now he seems getting a bit relax,

I might suggest when you must go to the cage that maybe you walk gently but with some sound, and look at the ground, until the bird relaxes. Be sure to bring a very good treat and place it in the cage every time. You can drop it in the bowl or wedge it in the bars. This way you will not look like you are stalking the bird, and it will see every time you come it gets a treat.

I don't know what to tell you about the mirror. Some birds do well with a mirror and others get a little strange because of it. It won't hurt to remove it for a little while, just in case. I think it would be a good idea to play those other birds for Mojo from time to time to help him/her feel there is some company, until he/she learns that you are the flock. I do think that if your bird want to hide behind something that you should accommodate it. Everyone needs a place to feel safe.

We have been reading about how to tame and treat our bird since we had him, and people suggest to keep your bird in the cage at least for 3-4 weeks. Then, to teach to get near the cage without scaring him and then offering food and finally teaching him to step our hand and leave him out fro the cage. Do you think this is the right way?

I think that you should be able to approach the cage in shorter time than several weeks. You can discover how close you can go without upsetting the bird, and mark that spot on the floor. Then you approach that close, stay a while, and retreat. Shorten the distance in very small steps. (If you decide to use a clicker, this is a perfect time, though it would be best if you could teach an association of treats with the clicker first. Hard to do if the bird is afraid of you.)

I would not let the bird out of the cage until it will go to a food lure. You don't have to be with the food. This is so you can place food in the cage to get the bird to go back home on its own. At the same time, I would try to reach this point as soon as possible so you lessen the chance the bird becomes afraid to leave the cage. I would not wait until the bird will step up for this. Another way to promote the bird going back home is to reduce the lights and make it seem like twilight. Do not put the lights totally out and then grab the bird, however, as some will advise. That is a good way to scare your bird to death!

Please be patient for another week, continue the nice things you are already doing, remove the mirror, and keep us informed. Figure out what food your bird loves. Some of the most popular foods are Sunflower seeds, nuts, corn.

Thanks once again for your reply and the information provided.

Best wishes,

[AJPeter]

That is a good point MissK about the high perch and the wall, but also l am thinking if Mojo came from a pet shop then there would have been a lot of noise during the day and at dusk and dawn when the shop was closed perhaps Arwen can have a radio on with people talking or music, Billie has to put up with classical and has grown to like opera, and she does not sing or talk but that does not bother me as she is a wonderful companion, and l like my companions to be moody.

I have a large wall mirrow behind the cage and Billie does not attempt to feed her image, partly becasue l had to move the cage away from the wall because Biliie has discovered it is fun to pick the flock off the patterned wallpaper!

I still eat my meals with Billie in her cage with the door open and by stretching she can reach my shoulder and then l have to fend off a famished parrot from eating my dinner with only a knife and fork!

Also if Mojo lived in the pet shop, only the cheapest seeds would have been available posibbly sunflower seeds. and no fruit or vegs.

Make sure Mojo cannot contaminate his water bowl with droppings or better still get a water bottle with ball bearing drip and check regularly that water can get past the ball.

One of the ways l got Billie to go back into her cage was to drop something into a seed bowl that she oculd not see, she then went in and that was that but now she steps up on my hand and l just put her through the door and close up shop.
Have a routine at night and Mojo will know when to go back in, when l turn off the floor lamp Billie knows that is the signal however l spent 4 hours in the semi darkness trying to get Billie back in her cage early on before she knew what was what.

In my opinion biting the bars is not trying to get out but a way testing their strength and exercising their beaks.

AJPeter

[Skyes_crew]

Arwen...where are you from? Is it possible this is a wild caught bird?

[Harrysmums]

Hey, I'm new too....

I would be interested in finding out where you got your bird from as it very much sounds like the same person!


Our boy was the same we have only had him 2 days but I'm involving him in everything we eat he eats we watch tv he is with us I'm trying to build his confidence by sitting next to cage doing normal things I'm not giving him eye contact.

If I have to go into the cage I leave a nice treat! I see such a difference with him already.

I've also heard of a white glove technique apparently it stops the hand looking like a talon will let you know how it goes.

If we can help each other as we are at the same stage that will be brilliant !

[sanjays mummi]

He sounds feral, even though sanjay was aviary bred and parent reared, he was not as nervous as Mojo. looking at the photo. Mojo is Not a chickster, a young adult I would say, and of course, they are more set in their ways. Time is the best thing, and settling in.

[Harrysmums]

With Harry I'm finding the white glove is amazing!

We have found he loves sunflower hearts his Pearch kept falling in cage so we have bought him new ones we attach a sunflower heart to old perch and he takes it saying good boy as he found that stress free we tried step up on the perch he has been fine with that so we got him on Monday and already he is getting there

I hope the op is having as much luck as us!

Moving our boy into the new cage involved a bad bite from him but hoping with the step up on old perch we can let him out as he has toys but not playing with them! Then he can get rid of excess energy as starting to chew bars!

[arwen_00]

Thanks for all your effort to help me. Unfortunately Mojo died. ((((((( It is very hard! Although we treated him/her very well, kept him in warm and we were so sensitive we lost him/her. My guess is that he/she was already sick, because it died in 6 days. This means that the seller fooled us.

All the best,
Arwen.

[Harrysmums]

Thanks for all your effort to help me. Unfortunately Mojo died. ((((((( It is very hard! Although we treated him/her very well, kept him in warm and we were so sensitive we lost him/her. My guess is that he/she was already sick, because it died in 6 days. This means that the seller fooled us.

All the best,



Arwen.

Im so sorry to hear this! Rip mojo!

If you got him from a breeder it may be worth having a post mortem done so you can go back with proof I know this will never replace him you can put a stop to them selling more!

[AJPeter]

I am very sorry for you Arwen, when a parrot dies it is very hard to adjust to the empty cage you wanted to love Mojo so much and you had a lot of love to give. Was Mojo eating before he died? Have you thought of having a post mortem carried out by a vet, have you contacted Pets4homes and told them? Did he die at night? Does it help to share your grief?

[MissK]

Arwen, so sorry to hear this. What will you do next?

[kanundra]

Oh hun, I am so sorry too, but if a bird dies so quick then yes I would think it was already sick. What did the shop say, did you get a post morton done? Really needed, in case you want to get another bird…

so sad, you really did want to love him.

[Harrysmums]

Hi,

I have spoken to op via private message...

Sadly he has buried the bird so no post mortem....

It turns out we got our birds from the same place...

Any advice on what to look for in a ill bird would greatly be appreciated.

Op is also contacting websites about seller as I have done.

[AJPeter]

A bird that sits up and has good plumage, who's eyes are bright is healthy but l think a bird that has ragged feathers, that slumps in posture, has dull eyes is unwell the longer that goes on for the greater the need to see a vet. Although l did not do this myself and therefore l speak as a hypocrete as soon as you get your bird have a vet look it over. Ringnecks and Alex and other parrots aere very good a hiding how ill they are, it is to do with the flock. If they exhibit symptons of ill health the other birds will attack them/

[InTheAir]

I strongly advise going to an avian vet, who specialises in birds.
Psittacosis, which is also contagious to humans, can be carried by the bird with very few outward signs, if any.
It is the main thing the avian vet I go to tests for in a new bird (as opposed to the general vet who doesn't). There are a few other nasty bugs with very long incubation periods too.

Ajpeters should be able to tell us how well hidden a bird can keep it's symptoms, he had a recent experience of this I believe.

Hi,

I have spoken to op via private message...

Sadly he has buried the bird so no post mortem....

It turns out we got our birds from the same place...

Any advice on what to look for in a ill bird would greatly be appreciated.

Op is also contacting websites about seller as I have done.

I took my new bird for a health check even though I had been visiting the breeder for months and watched all his young birds grow up, so was pretty confident that my new bird was healthy. Better safe than sorry! It was also a good opportunity to get the vet to give her some worm medication with a crop needle (though the bird showed no sign of having any internal parasites, it was just precautionary).

[Harrysmums]

So I need to get Harry to a vet.... I understand this....


My issue is that he is no where near tame! Would taking him unless he is showing symptoms stress him out?

He has come so far in a week I don't want to loose that!

He looks healthy to my untrained eye and he has become vocal and has lots of energy.

Would you still recommend a visit?

[InTheAir]

I think it is good practise to do a new bird check anyway.
My Avian vet is about an hours drive away from me, I took my completely untamed bird there 2 days after we got her. She didn't enjoy the trip or the tests, but it is a necessary evil.

It didn't get in the way of taming her at all. Just make sure the vet is the one toweling the bird, not you. The vet thought I was a bit nuts because I wouldn't even come near my bird while she was towelled! The vet was trying to show me the pretty edged pattern on her wings and I said I'd look at them in a few weeks time when the bird is tame and willing to let me look while she is not restrained.

If your bird came from the same place as a bird who just died of unknown cause, I think you would be well advised to find a good Avian vet and book your bird in. Birds can hide their symptoms well.

What area are you in? Someone on here may be able to recommend a good vet.

[Harrysmums]

I think it is good practise to do a new bird check anyway.
My Avian vet is about an hours drive away from me, I took my completely untamed bird there 2 days after we got her. She didn't enjoy the trip or the tests, but it is a necessary evil.

It didn't get in the way of taming her at all. Just make sure the vet is the one toweling the bird, not you. The vet thought I was a bit nuts because I wouldn't even come near my bird while she was towelled! The vet was trying to show me the pretty edged pattern on her wings and I said I'd look at them in a few weeks time when the bird is tame and willing to let me look while she is not restrained.

If your bird came from the same place as a bird who just died of unknown cause, I think you would be well advised to find a good Avian vet and book your bird in. Birds can hide their symptoms well.

What area are you in? Someone on here may be able to recommend a good vet.

Im in London... I I don't drive but will get a cab!

I will do a Google search and def get him checked over he has only been in my life 8 days but Im totally smitten

Thank you for your advice

[AJPeter]

It is too early yet Claire to decide l have that knowledge but what l know is l took Billie to the vets becasue l thought she was egg bound and the vet said Billie was under weight and had a lung problem. The vet wanted to under take a Chlamydia test and if positive undgo treatment the cost would be £230. I have booked Billie in next tuesday.

Symoptons of Chlamydia in birds are diarrehea (all right l cannot spell) runny nose and tiredness amongst some, but of course it is a diesease that can be transmitted to humans and is called Psittacosis and the symptons are flu like and can be very danagerours. Even life threatening.

Are there any thread about chlamydia or psitticosis?

A lot one the web

[Harrysmums]

Is there a thread on what the vet's should test a new bird for?

If not does someone mind just jotting it down for me?


Thanks in advance

[InTheAir]

Is there a thread on what the vet's should test a new bird for?

If not does someone mind just jotting it down for me?


Thanks in advance

I don't know a lot about this. My vet did psittacosis test, gram stain and physical exam of Sapphire, weight, temp, feather condition etc. I didn't deem any other testing necessary, as I know the breeder quite well and trust him.
If you visit an avian vet, they may feel more testing is needed depending on your birds condition.

I can't stress Avian Vet enough!

Going to the local dog and cat vet is not worth the money, in my experience. We took Nila to one when we first got him and the guy missed a deformity that Nila has that the Avian vet spotted when he saw Nila in the waiting room! The cat and dog vet told us we should breed from Nila, because Nila has such a great personality.
Avian vet recommended a full blood panel be done due to the deformity and found Nila had high cholesterol (which may be a hereditary problem, therefore Nila may not be suitable for breeding. .. He is almost due for his second checkup and blood chemistry, which will ascertain whether it was diet related or a bigger issue).
Avian Vets are more expensive, but it is worth it! Mine also have good advice on foraging activities and training, as well as diet and housing.
Check out this link:
http://adelaidevet.com.au/pet-library/c ... sittacosis
I am in Australia, so I can't recommend any vets in London

[MissK]

Mums~ I can also speak to taking the untamed bird to the vet. I took Rocky in the very day after I brought him home. He was not one of those birds who is terrified of humans, but he didn't want humans to be close and certainly not to touch him. The vet handled him (he was not amused) and groomed him (he screamed bloody murder) and put him back into the cage for me. I saw NO CHANGE in Rocky's opinion of me.

If anything, I think he might have been more glad of me because I *didn't* do any of those unwelcome things to him, but I *did* take him out of that place and add so many, many treats to his food bowl. Also, the vet was a man.

A year later I took Rocky back to the vet, a different and better vet. By that time, Rocky would sit on my wrist, but only in a comfortable and familiar situation (so, Living Room OK, Kitchen not OK, that kind of thing). The vet toweled him and stuffed him into a pot for weighing. She also drew blood and handled him a lot more than he wanted. It really tuckered him out, but again, NO CHANGE in his behaviour towards me. This vet was a woman, but a stranger to him.

I would say bribe the bird into the carrier if you can, pass the carrier to the vet, and stand back. Have the best treats ready for the ride home.

AJ ~ I had no idea Billie was not well! I'm so sorry! By all means talk to the vet about feeding, but also make sure she eats what you give her. I know you will watch her carefully for this. Did you feel her keel bone with the vet so you can learn what is desirable and what is not? My mind is racing, wondering at what could be the matter with her lungs. When I got Rocky, his lungs were at the top of my list of concerns, as he came from a house where his person died from emphysema! I hope you asked the vet to list all possible causes for the lung problem, and explain them to you. I wish you the best with this.

[Skyes_crew]

MissK...Billie is believed to have psittacosis. It affects the lungs on both birds and humans. Flu like symptoms. And can easily turn into pneumonia. She has a slight weazy sound to her breathing. We are all praying for Billie to come through like a champ.

Harrysmum...where you live dictates whether some tests are necessary or not. Where I live...a new bird exam consists of a blood panel, gram stain, and psittacosis test. And they strongly recommend a PBFD test even though we haven't seen it here in a long time. But prevention is key in not spreading it if it does pop up somewhere. If you have any parrot associations in your area, you can ask them for an AV recommendation.