New IRN HELP!
Moderator: Mods
New IRN HELP!
I have just got my first IRN it is only 3 - 4 Months old any tips for training diet etc?? Any help aprieciated!!!!
-
Dianeh
new ringneck-
My baby, Cosmo, is now 10 months old. I got him when he was 8 weeks old. In the beginning, he loved to be hand fed and eat out of my hand. He ate everything from the time I brought him home. He loves mixed vegetables, pasta and some fruits. When he was first home, I kept everything soft for a month or so and now he eats whatever I give him!
Cosmo was sexed so I knew he was a male from the time I brought him home. I talk to him constantly and now he's saying about 8-10 phrases.
Pay lots of attention to your baby and they'll give you just as much back!
Cosmo was sexed so I knew he was a male from the time I brought him home. I talk to him constantly and now he's saying about 8-10 phrases.
Pay lots of attention to your baby and they'll give you just as much back!
-
Leobabe
My birds will eat just about anything and everything, but there are some foods that are toxic to ur fids, heres the list of things to stay away from completely: chocolate, avocados, alcohol, caffeine, and fruit pits. also, sugar is bad for them, i do occasionally let them have just a little bit, but not much and not often. Favorites of alot of fids are, egg, pasta, just about any veggie, crackers, and bread (white isnt the best for them, i've heard but i've never had any problems) Hope i helped
Sounds like your baby ringneck is going through the bluffing stage! She is testing her limits and it’s very important you ignore her new behavior and handle your bird during this stage. This is the most critical stage and I believe if you work though with consistency, it will give your ringneck a good foundation. Avoid territorial behavior by practicing step-ups insider her cage. Always end each session on a positive note.
I know it can be hard; however, it’s very important you do not leave her alone for long periods of time. The more you handle her and play with her, the better results you’re going to get. Remember, ringnecks are very keen on reading body language so it’s important you do not pull your hand back. This will only let your female know she is in control. Just like a child, she has to lean the house rules. Be consistent and be patient. My female ringneck took about a month if I remember correctly to get though this stage.
Please keep your ringneck off your shoulder and away from your face. Your ears and face can get a nasty bite so be cautious.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask! This is the most difficult time of a ringneck’s life!
Hang in there & best wishes,
I.C.
I know it can be hard; however, it’s very important you do not leave her alone for long periods of time. The more you handle her and play with her, the better results you’re going to get. Remember, ringnecks are very keen on reading body language so it’s important you do not pull your hand back. This will only let your female know she is in control. Just like a child, she has to lean the house rules. Be consistent and be patient. My female ringneck took about a month if I remember correctly to get though this stage.
Please keep your ringneck off your shoulder and away from your face. Your ears and face can get a nasty bite so be cautious.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask! This is the most difficult time of a ringneck’s life!
Hang in there & best wishes,
I.C.
-
Phoenix's mom
biting
My IRN is now 2 yrs, he went thur the bluffing stage, even pierced my nose 
boy did that hurt. I found that putting my hand over his head and gently lowering his head helped. We very rarely have to do this anymore but it sure helped greatly. Also don't yell at your bird this only scares them and can make things worse.
boy did that hurt. I found that putting my hand over his head and gently lowering his head helped. We very rarely have to do this anymore but it sure helped greatly. Also don't yell at your bird this only scares them and can make things worse.
-
indian ringneck
Yes, the IRNS just love their fruits & veggies; and my IRN's favorite is also apples! Guess, it's just popular among Ringnecks! Oh, I posted you a PM about taming & training. Here it is...
In the initial taming sessions only one person should work with the bird. Two people tend to distract one another and make the bird nervous. The best trainer is the person with the most time to devote to the task. The trainer must not be a quitter and should have a calm, cool head. Some parrots take much longer to tame than others, and if the trainer is impatient or inconsistent in his lessons, the parrot may never develop the desired behavior. Nervous people are poor choices for the trainers, as are people with quick tempers who may end up injuring the bird. The person with self-confidence who knows that he can accomplish taming the parrot given enough time is the best possible choice. Young children should not be responsible for taming the parrot. Besides the possibility of being bitten by the bird, the average child cannot understand the reason that the parrot is biting. Lacking proper understanding of the parrot, they may harm it or develop bad feelings toward it. The taming area should be decided upon before you begin. A small room is better than a large one. A carpeted or padded floor is imperative to protect the bird from injury. Rooms with a great deal of furniture are difficult to work in, for the bird may be difficult to retrieve. A cluttered room is hazardous to the parrot if it insists on jumping away from you or the bird stand. Cover large windows and mirrors that the parrot may be attracted to. If the room has no carpeting, be certain to pad the floor. Bring the cage into the training area in the first couple of lessons until you have taught the parrot to remain on a stick while you move him from room to room. Have a low bird stand available and two training sticks, one short, and one long. Bring a few food rewards and the bird's water cup into the training area. Tie back your hair to keep it out of the way and remove bracelets and rings that may attract the parrot. Wear a shirt that the bird cannot get its claws snagged in or you may be bitten unnecessarily.
The First Lessons:
Place the bird cage low to the floor and open the door. Step back and see if the bird will come out of the cage. If not, offer it a stick to perch on and try to move it through the door. It may help to stand behind the cage, for the parrot may walk away from you out the open door. Most birds will climb to the top of the cage once out. Slowly close the cage door without startling the bird.You must learn to move slowly around parrots even after they are tame. By moving slowly and deliberately, the parrot will have a chance to observe you and see that you intend no harm. With the cage door closed, the parrot cannot jump back into the cage. Using the short training stick, place it in front of the parrot's feet. Push gently against the bird's legs in an upward motion. Some birds will run all over the cage rather than step on the stick, while others will step up as thought they've been doing it for years. For those that run, try to maneuver them off of the cage onto the floor. Step between the parrot and its cage and kneel down, offering the stick. Most parrots prefer to get off the floor. If necessary, slowly corner the bird and keep offering the stick until it steps on. When the parrot steps onto the stick for the first time, do not lift it high off the floor. If the bird stepped onto the stick as soon as it was offered, move slowly to the stand and let it step on. With these Parrots, taming is often achieved in the first lesson. For the birds that step onto the stick and jump off every couple of seconds, drill low to the floor. Let the bird step onto the stick and put it back down on the floor. Repeat this drill until the bird steps unhesitatingly onto the stick. At this point move the bird to the stand and let it step on. Teach the parrot to step from the stand to the stick, and back again, by drilling it over and over. Speak to the parrot in a soft soothing voice as you drill it. Never grab the bird, and don't chase after it if it jumps off the stand to the floor. Always move slowly and the bird will settle down faster. Retrieve it with the stick and go back to the stand. After you feel that the bird has mastered stick training, begin hand taming. Offer your hand to the parrot, not your finger. Most parrots are to large to sit on you finger. Offer your hand fingers together, horizontally to the bird's feet. Some parrots will lift one foot and hold it in the air. Others will step on with one foot and leave the other gripping the stand. Most parrots test new perches by pressing against ]them with their beaks. If the Amazon steps on with one foot and moves its beak down to touch your hand, don't assume that the bird will bite you. The natural tendency of a novice trainer is to draw away from the parrot's beak. This is very bad. It signifies to the parrot that you are not a reliable perch. This is not to suggest that you let the parrot bite you. Most of the time the bird will not bite you anyway. but if you do have to deal with a parrot that bites, learn to use your free hand to distract it. Use one hand to push against the bird's feet, but don't use with one constant motion if it does not step onto your hand. Press against the legs for an instant and then relax the pressure without moving your hand away. Constant pressure may cause the parrot to hold tightly to the stand. Intermittent pressure usually causes the bird to release its grip in order to balance. You may have to coax the bird with food reward. Try sunflower seed, PEANUTS, or raw corn kernels, Reward the bird for placing one foot on your hand and go from there. When he places one foot on your hand, press against the other leg an move your hand in a slow upward motion. The bird may step on immediately or the lesson could take a long time. You must be able to adjust to the bird's behavior if you are going to be successful at taming. Don't let the parrot train you, but learn to shape the length and content of the lessons according to the parrot's responses. If the bird bites you every time you offer your hand, tell it "NO" in a loud voice when it moves to bite. Use your free hand to distract the bird by touching it lightly if necessary. Never strike the parrot for biting you. Not only could you injure the bird, but you won't get the lesson across. Be patient, consistent, and even-tempered if you plan to tame the bird. When the parrot steps onto your hand for the first time, you have made a definite breakthrough. Practice having the bird step onto your hand from the stand and back again to make this an automatic response. Repetition of basic behaviors is the best way to tame your parrot. Stick training and hand taming are the most basic forms of training that you can do with a parrot. After the parrot steps onto you hand fluidity, move your hand away from the stand and slowly turn your back to it. Use your body to block the bird from jumping back to the stand. Hold your hand and elbow low and in close to your body, Take to the parrot, In a few minutes, turn back to the stand and let the bird step back on if it wants. Give it a drink of water and begin again. Taming lessons do not have to be marathon sessions of an hour or more. Twenty minutes of intensive work is enough for parrot and trainer alike, Learn how to relax while the bird sits on it's stand; the bird will need to rest and let the lesson sink in anyway. Let the parrot sit on the stand even if you leave the room for a minute. Teaching the bird to remain on the stand is one of your ultimate goals. If you decide to leave the house or get involved in a lengthy chore, put the bird back in its cage and resume the lesson later. After the parrot has mastered hand taming, try to walk slowly around the room with it. Talk to the bird. stand still, then move some more. Eventually leave the taming area and walk slowly to another room. Hold your hand down and give the bird the security of you body. Holding the parrot up in the air and walking with it will invite the bird to jump. When you get to the other room, stand still for a minute and talk to the bird. Then walk some more, this is the best way of familiarizing the bird with your home and getting it to accept you as the most secure perch available. At this point, you should be able to continue your sessions in the same room the cage is in. Move the stand into the room and continue the lessons. When the parrot is relaxed enough to perch on your hand, introduce it to the other family members. One at a time should attempt to make friends with the bird. When one person deals with a parrot exclusively, if often develops into a one-man or one-woman bird. The one-person bird is not desirable in a family setting. Parrots can be very jealous of people that live in the house who don't pay attention to them. Avoid the one-person bird by proper training. If you can't solve the problem, at least keep others away from the parrot or it may inflict a painful bite. Frequent lessons are important in taming and training a parrot to coexist in a household. Deal with the parrot on a daily basis, more than once a day if possible. Once the bird has mastered the basics, take it out of the cage and let it sit on the stand in the family room as much as possible. Place the bird back in its cage when you are ready to retire for the night. There are some myths about parrot taming that should be discussed. Taming the bird in a totally dark room is foolish. The bird can't see and neither can you. Both parities will get nervous under these circumstances. Have adequate lighting in the training area. Wetting the bird is a bad idea since it subjects the bird to additional stress in an already stressful situation. Never wet the bird for reasons of training. Food deprivation is thought by some to be a good way of winning the bird's confidence. On the contrary! A hungry bird is more interested in eating than in making friends with you. Part of wining the bird's confidence is accomplished by feeding and watering it regularly. You may wish to cut the ration of feed during training into two or more portions, giving one portion in the morning and the rest in the afternoon and evening. Chaining the parrot to the stand is inhumane and dangerous. Some parrots will learn to live with the leg chain, but the majority react to it by trying to chew it off or pull the foot free. The bird that is suddenly frightened may jump off the stand and break its leg if held by a chain. It is far better to put the time into perch training if you wish the parrot to remain out for any length of time. Teach the parrot to remain on the stand by letting it sit there and then reward it periodically for sitting. Pick it up on your hand, place it back on the stand and reward it. Petting the bird takes additional training. Touch the parrot on the breast for an instant and talk to it. You may have to put a good deal of time into pet taming before the bird actually enjoys being touched. Most parrots learn to love having their heads scratched. Eventually the parrot will hold up all of the feathers on the head and neck for you to preen. In the initial lessons, try stroking the bird on the beak, throat, nape and face. Rub his toes and legs. Try touch it under the wings. Find out what your parrot accepts the easiest and go from there. You must learn to adjust your training to the responses of the bird; not all parrots enjoy the same kind o handling. Developing a friendly rapport with a parrot may take from a few days to a few months. Don't be discouraged if the bird does not adjust quickly. Give yourself and the parrot plenty of time and sincere effort before giving up trying to tame it. It is possible that you may encounter an untamable parrot. Most of the time these are older parrots that have lived for many years in someone's home. The former owners probably never handled the bird, so it adjusted to a life of confinement without much human interaction. It is unlikely that you will ever be able to make this a pettable bird. Parrots that have lived for years with people that did handle them are often slow to make friends with new owners, but it is possible. The great majority of imported birds are very tamable if they come to you from the wholesaler or retailer. These parrots have had no previous experience as household pets, so they have not developed any rigid ideas of how to behave with people. If you give the wild bird an opportunity to develop positive attitudes toward life as a single pet, you will most likely end up with an affectionate bird. It is far easier to tame a wild caught parrot than one that has been ignored in someone's home for many years. You can consider your Parrot a tame pet if it exhibits the following behavior. It will come out of the cage when you open the door even if it comes out by itself for a couple of weeks. Once outside the cage the bird will step onto your hand from the cage to be transferred to the stand and remain there without biting. The bird will step from one hand to the other. At this point you can allow other family members to begin handling the bird. Always supervise children or you may have to deal with an injured parrot or child. Let the adult members of the household make friends with the parrot. Try not to stand and watch their first interactions or you will make both parties nervous. Remember that it is very important for the parrot to become tame to more than one person or you will end up with a one-man or or woman bird. Avoid this situation by having more than one person feed, clean and handle the parrot.
Hope you'll get to know him/her better. How old is he/she by the way?
In the initial taming sessions only one person should work with the bird. Two people tend to distract one another and make the bird nervous. The best trainer is the person with the most time to devote to the task. The trainer must not be a quitter and should have a calm, cool head. Some parrots take much longer to tame than others, and if the trainer is impatient or inconsistent in his lessons, the parrot may never develop the desired behavior. Nervous people are poor choices for the trainers, as are people with quick tempers who may end up injuring the bird. The person with self-confidence who knows that he can accomplish taming the parrot given enough time is the best possible choice. Young children should not be responsible for taming the parrot. Besides the possibility of being bitten by the bird, the average child cannot understand the reason that the parrot is biting. Lacking proper understanding of the parrot, they may harm it or develop bad feelings toward it. The taming area should be decided upon before you begin. A small room is better than a large one. A carpeted or padded floor is imperative to protect the bird from injury. Rooms with a great deal of furniture are difficult to work in, for the bird may be difficult to retrieve. A cluttered room is hazardous to the parrot if it insists on jumping away from you or the bird stand. Cover large windows and mirrors that the parrot may be attracted to. If the room has no carpeting, be certain to pad the floor. Bring the cage into the training area in the first couple of lessons until you have taught the parrot to remain on a stick while you move him from room to room. Have a low bird stand available and two training sticks, one short, and one long. Bring a few food rewards and the bird's water cup into the training area. Tie back your hair to keep it out of the way and remove bracelets and rings that may attract the parrot. Wear a shirt that the bird cannot get its claws snagged in or you may be bitten unnecessarily.
The First Lessons:
Place the bird cage low to the floor and open the door. Step back and see if the bird will come out of the cage. If not, offer it a stick to perch on and try to move it through the door. It may help to stand behind the cage, for the parrot may walk away from you out the open door. Most birds will climb to the top of the cage once out. Slowly close the cage door without startling the bird.You must learn to move slowly around parrots even after they are tame. By moving slowly and deliberately, the parrot will have a chance to observe you and see that you intend no harm. With the cage door closed, the parrot cannot jump back into the cage. Using the short training stick, place it in front of the parrot's feet. Push gently against the bird's legs in an upward motion. Some birds will run all over the cage rather than step on the stick, while others will step up as thought they've been doing it for years. For those that run, try to maneuver them off of the cage onto the floor. Step between the parrot and its cage and kneel down, offering the stick. Most parrots prefer to get off the floor. If necessary, slowly corner the bird and keep offering the stick until it steps on. When the parrot steps onto the stick for the first time, do not lift it high off the floor. If the bird stepped onto the stick as soon as it was offered, move slowly to the stand and let it step on. With these Parrots, taming is often achieved in the first lesson. For the birds that step onto the stick and jump off every couple of seconds, drill low to the floor. Let the bird step onto the stick and put it back down on the floor. Repeat this drill until the bird steps unhesitatingly onto the stick. At this point move the bird to the stand and let it step on. Teach the parrot to step from the stand to the stick, and back again, by drilling it over and over. Speak to the parrot in a soft soothing voice as you drill it. Never grab the bird, and don't chase after it if it jumps off the stand to the floor. Always move slowly and the bird will settle down faster. Retrieve it with the stick and go back to the stand. After you feel that the bird has mastered stick training, begin hand taming. Offer your hand to the parrot, not your finger. Most parrots are to large to sit on you finger. Offer your hand fingers together, horizontally to the bird's feet. Some parrots will lift one foot and hold it in the air. Others will step on with one foot and leave the other gripping the stand. Most parrots test new perches by pressing against ]them with their beaks. If the Amazon steps on with one foot and moves its beak down to touch your hand, don't assume that the bird will bite you. The natural tendency of a novice trainer is to draw away from the parrot's beak. This is very bad. It signifies to the parrot that you are not a reliable perch. This is not to suggest that you let the parrot bite you. Most of the time the bird will not bite you anyway. but if you do have to deal with a parrot that bites, learn to use your free hand to distract it. Use one hand to push against the bird's feet, but don't use with one constant motion if it does not step onto your hand. Press against the legs for an instant and then relax the pressure without moving your hand away. Constant pressure may cause the parrot to hold tightly to the stand. Intermittent pressure usually causes the bird to release its grip in order to balance. You may have to coax the bird with food reward. Try sunflower seed, PEANUTS, or raw corn kernels, Reward the bird for placing one foot on your hand and go from there. When he places one foot on your hand, press against the other leg an move your hand in a slow upward motion. The bird may step on immediately or the lesson could take a long time. You must be able to adjust to the bird's behavior if you are going to be successful at taming. Don't let the parrot train you, but learn to shape the length and content of the lessons according to the parrot's responses. If the bird bites you every time you offer your hand, tell it "NO" in a loud voice when it moves to bite. Use your free hand to distract the bird by touching it lightly if necessary. Never strike the parrot for biting you. Not only could you injure the bird, but you won't get the lesson across. Be patient, consistent, and even-tempered if you plan to tame the bird. When the parrot steps onto your hand for the first time, you have made a definite breakthrough. Practice having the bird step onto your hand from the stand and back again to make this an automatic response. Repetition of basic behaviors is the best way to tame your parrot. Stick training and hand taming are the most basic forms of training that you can do with a parrot. After the parrot steps onto you hand fluidity, move your hand away from the stand and slowly turn your back to it. Use your body to block the bird from jumping back to the stand. Hold your hand and elbow low and in close to your body, Take to the parrot, In a few minutes, turn back to the stand and let the bird step back on if it wants. Give it a drink of water and begin again. Taming lessons do not have to be marathon sessions of an hour or more. Twenty minutes of intensive work is enough for parrot and trainer alike, Learn how to relax while the bird sits on it's stand; the bird will need to rest and let the lesson sink in anyway. Let the parrot sit on the stand even if you leave the room for a minute. Teaching the bird to remain on the stand is one of your ultimate goals. If you decide to leave the house or get involved in a lengthy chore, put the bird back in its cage and resume the lesson later. After the parrot has mastered hand taming, try to walk slowly around the room with it. Talk to the bird. stand still, then move some more. Eventually leave the taming area and walk slowly to another room. Hold your hand down and give the bird the security of you body. Holding the parrot up in the air and walking with it will invite the bird to jump. When you get to the other room, stand still for a minute and talk to the bird. Then walk some more, this is the best way of familiarizing the bird with your home and getting it to accept you as the most secure perch available. At this point, you should be able to continue your sessions in the same room the cage is in. Move the stand into the room and continue the lessons. When the parrot is relaxed enough to perch on your hand, introduce it to the other family members. One at a time should attempt to make friends with the bird. When one person deals with a parrot exclusively, if often develops into a one-man or one-woman bird. The one-person bird is not desirable in a family setting. Parrots can be very jealous of people that live in the house who don't pay attention to them. Avoid the one-person bird by proper training. If you can't solve the problem, at least keep others away from the parrot or it may inflict a painful bite. Frequent lessons are important in taming and training a parrot to coexist in a household. Deal with the parrot on a daily basis, more than once a day if possible. Once the bird has mastered the basics, take it out of the cage and let it sit on the stand in the family room as much as possible. Place the bird back in its cage when you are ready to retire for the night. There are some myths about parrot taming that should be discussed. Taming the bird in a totally dark room is foolish. The bird can't see and neither can you. Both parities will get nervous under these circumstances. Have adequate lighting in the training area. Wetting the bird is a bad idea since it subjects the bird to additional stress in an already stressful situation. Never wet the bird for reasons of training. Food deprivation is thought by some to be a good way of winning the bird's confidence. On the contrary! A hungry bird is more interested in eating than in making friends with you. Part of wining the bird's confidence is accomplished by feeding and watering it regularly. You may wish to cut the ration of feed during training into two or more portions, giving one portion in the morning and the rest in the afternoon and evening. Chaining the parrot to the stand is inhumane and dangerous. Some parrots will learn to live with the leg chain, but the majority react to it by trying to chew it off or pull the foot free. The bird that is suddenly frightened may jump off the stand and break its leg if held by a chain. It is far better to put the time into perch training if you wish the parrot to remain out for any length of time. Teach the parrot to remain on the stand by letting it sit there and then reward it periodically for sitting. Pick it up on your hand, place it back on the stand and reward it. Petting the bird takes additional training. Touch the parrot on the breast for an instant and talk to it. You may have to put a good deal of time into pet taming before the bird actually enjoys being touched. Most parrots learn to love having their heads scratched. Eventually the parrot will hold up all of the feathers on the head and neck for you to preen. In the initial lessons, try stroking the bird on the beak, throat, nape and face. Rub his toes and legs. Try touch it under the wings. Find out what your parrot accepts the easiest and go from there. You must learn to adjust your training to the responses of the bird; not all parrots enjoy the same kind o handling. Developing a friendly rapport with a parrot may take from a few days to a few months. Don't be discouraged if the bird does not adjust quickly. Give yourself and the parrot plenty of time and sincere effort before giving up trying to tame it. It is possible that you may encounter an untamable parrot. Most of the time these are older parrots that have lived for many years in someone's home. The former owners probably never handled the bird, so it adjusted to a life of confinement without much human interaction. It is unlikely that you will ever be able to make this a pettable bird. Parrots that have lived for years with people that did handle them are often slow to make friends with new owners, but it is possible. The great majority of imported birds are very tamable if they come to you from the wholesaler or retailer. These parrots have had no previous experience as household pets, so they have not developed any rigid ideas of how to behave with people. If you give the wild bird an opportunity to develop positive attitudes toward life as a single pet, you will most likely end up with an affectionate bird. It is far easier to tame a wild caught parrot than one that has been ignored in someone's home for many years. You can consider your Parrot a tame pet if it exhibits the following behavior. It will come out of the cage when you open the door even if it comes out by itself for a couple of weeks. Once outside the cage the bird will step onto your hand from the cage to be transferred to the stand and remain there without biting. The bird will step from one hand to the other. At this point you can allow other family members to begin handling the bird. Always supervise children or you may have to deal with an injured parrot or child. Let the adult members of the household make friends with the parrot. Try not to stand and watch their first interactions or you will make both parties nervous. Remember that it is very important for the parrot to become tame to more than one person or you will end up with a one-man or or woman bird. Avoid this situation by having more than one person feed, clean and handle the parrot.
Hope you'll get to know him/her better. How old is he/she by the way?