It's Chook's thing that in the morning when my husband wakes up to go to work and has a morning coffee, Chook gets off his perch and chews on his shoe laces for a while. Then when Jamie leaves, he comes into our bedroom and climbs onto the bed. If I'm asleep, he will lightly pull my eyelashes or stick his beak up my nose. If I'm sleeping on my side, he will push down between the sheet and the mattress and snuggle up and go to sleep. Last Saturday, Jamie (who doesn't have a particularly close bond to Chook) was teasing him with his fingers and Chookie would run out and lunge at his fingers. Jamie thought it was funny and I think Chook was having fun too. Only problem is that for the last week, Chook has been lunging at me and because I am generally not fully awake or asleep, he gets me on the face. He doesn't bite, its more like he just hits the top of his beak on me. It doesn't draw blood but can sometimes scratch. Not really painful, just not the way I like to wake up.
This morning when he was rushing up to lunge I grabbed his body in my hand and closed my hand around him and said no, then released him. He settled down and went to sleep. Only problem is that if I'm asleep, I can't grab him.
Anyone else have these situations? How can I break him out of this habit?
Chook's taken over our bed
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Mikaela
- Posts: 3752
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Jade:
When he does this, gently place your finger on his upper beak and press down so his chin is near/on his chest and say Noooooo. Not loud but meaningful. Hold his beak with your finger until you get the Noooo out. Then act like nothing happened. Rinse, repeat.
He wont try to stop you from doing this but he will NOT like it. It shows them you own that beak, they are just allowed to use it for good, not evil.
You will see a shameful look on his face when you do this. They dont like to be disrepected as they see it. Try it, let me know how he reacted.
He needs to associate that his beak is getting him into trouble, I do this when my girls nip too. You honestly can see a shameful look on their face. They SO get it. Even when you remove your finger they keep there face down and look up at you like " man Im sorry "
When he does this, gently place your finger on his upper beak and press down so his chin is near/on his chest and say Noooooo. Not loud but meaningful. Hold his beak with your finger until you get the Noooo out. Then act like nothing happened. Rinse, repeat.
He wont try to stop you from doing this but he will NOT like it. It shows them you own that beak, they are just allowed to use it for good, not evil.
You will see a shameful look on his face when you do this. They dont like to be disrepected as they see it. Try it, let me know how he reacted.
He needs to associate that his beak is getting him into trouble, I do this when my girls nip too. You honestly can see a shameful look on their face. They SO get it. Even when you remove your finger they keep there face down and look up at you like " man Im sorry "
~ Mikaela Sky
Hello Jade,
I would not let Chook near your face in the morning. Why? He might damage your eye or you could roll over on him. Take caution and solve the problem.
First, you could keep him inside his cage during the mornings and open the cage up while you are home. If he can open the doors, which most ringnecks are great escape artists, then use parrot clips to hook and lock the doors. This will take care of that problem.
If however you want him on his play stand, then constantly place him back there. I know it may be tedious and tiresome; however, your ringneck will catch on what’s appropriate and what’s not. Staying on his stand he’ll understand IF you continually place him there. Do not allow him to wonder around.
Also, ignore any biting. If your ringneck does lunge or bite, simply distract him and completely ignore any biting. That means no evil eye, no yelling, and no cage time. It’s simple—ignore his bad behavior. Your ringneck will soon learn that when he bite, he gets nothing from you. Ringnecks love reactions.
Mikaela, also, I must disagree with you on the finger punishment. Although it does seem logical, it should not be done. Placing a finger on a beak is an invitation for more confrontation and could be mistaken also as beaking, which is playing. I see your logic though, but I believe ringnecks don’t understand discipline like humans. 
I watch my ringnecks interact and most avoid confrontation if they can.
But trust me, sometimes I feel like grabbing Archimedes and showing him who is boss when he acts up.
But I just ignore it and he returns to his same loving little monster that he is. He has only bitten me twice and all never drew blood.
I practiced this behavior modification with my African Grey. When I got him, he could not even be taken out from his cage. The pet store had to use a stick. I simply prepared myself for his attitude and approached him with confidence and ignored all disruptive behavior. Now he is just the sweetest thing. And has not bitten my since I got him.
Hope this helps and best wishes,
Imran Chaudhry
I would not let Chook near your face in the morning. Why? He might damage your eye or you could roll over on him. Take caution and solve the problem.
First, you could keep him inside his cage during the mornings and open the cage up while you are home. If he can open the doors, which most ringnecks are great escape artists, then use parrot clips to hook and lock the doors. This will take care of that problem.
If however you want him on his play stand, then constantly place him back there. I know it may be tedious and tiresome; however, your ringneck will catch on what’s appropriate and what’s not. Staying on his stand he’ll understand IF you continually place him there. Do not allow him to wonder around.
Also, ignore any biting. If your ringneck does lunge or bite, simply distract him and completely ignore any biting. That means no evil eye, no yelling, and no cage time. It’s simple—ignore his bad behavior. Your ringneck will soon learn that when he bite, he gets nothing from you. Ringnecks love reactions.
Mikaela, also, I must disagree with you on the finger punishment.
Although it does seem logical, it should not be done. Placing a finger on a beak is an invitation for more confrontation and could be mistaken also as beaking, which is playing. I see your logic though, but I believe ringnecks don’t understand discipline like humans.
I watch my ringnecks interact and most avoid confrontation if they can.
But trust me, sometimes I feel like grabbing Archimedes and showing him who is boss when he acts up.
But I just ignore it and he returns to his same loving little monster that he is. He has only bitten me twice and all never drew blood.
I practiced this behavior modification with my African Grey. When I got him, he could not even be taken out from his cage. The pet store had to use a stick. I simply prepared myself for his attitude and approached him with confidence and ignored all disruptive behavior. Now he is just the sweetest thing. And has not bitten my since I got him.
Hope this helps and best wishes,
Imran Chaudhry
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Mikaela
- Posts: 3752
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 5:12 am
- Location: Islamorada Key, Florida U.S.A.
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What works for some parronts/birds may not work for others. All I know is my girls are tame and friendly and that is the technique I use. I dont have to be concerned, although I am always careful, they are wild animals, with being attacked in the face or elsewhere because they know I will embarrass them with the beak technique. They feel and dislike feeling ashamed very much. Thereby, making the technique extremely effective.
They dont see it as playtime, they know exactly what Im doing. They aim to please so when they realized Im not, they refrain from eating me.
They dont see it as playtime, they know exactly what Im doing. They aim to please so when they realized Im not, they refrain from eating me.
~ Mikaela Sky
Hey a lot of great advice there. Different things work for different birds for example I have a CAG who despises humans I’m assuming she’s wild caught because to start with she tolerated nobody not even the pet shop owner. But sure enough she’s starting to settle down now.
Imran was your grey like this to start with and how long did it take him to settle? I’ve had mine for near 4 months now she is gradually getting there. I made I simple mistake to start with which set me back a few months I was gradually gaining her trust when like an idiot I decided it was time her to come out of her cage so I opened the door and sure enough se came out and it turned out she was fully flitted and she flew straight in to a window just the once though she was quick to realise she couldn’t get through any way the next half hour was traumatic for her and for me but once I caught her I clipped 5 of her primary flight feathers and when I put her back in her cage she was worse than when I first got her but she has settled a lot since then. The mistake I made was letting her out of her cage you I should have made sure she was clipped and what not.
Anyway Imran was your grey semi-tame or sumit?
Imran was your grey like this to start with and how long did it take him to settle? I’ve had mine for near 4 months now she is gradually getting there. I made I simple mistake to start with which set me back a few months I was gradually gaining her trust when like an idiot I decided it was time her to come out of her cage so I opened the door and sure enough se came out and it turned out she was fully flitted and she flew straight in to a window just the once though she was quick to realise she couldn’t get through any way the next half hour was traumatic for her and for me but once I caught her I clipped 5 of her primary flight feathers and when I put her back in her cage she was worse than when I first got her but she has settled a lot since then. The mistake I made was letting her out of her cage you I should have made sure she was clipped and what not.
Anyway Imran was your grey semi-tame or sumit?
If she has been imported you should approach her calmly. Sounds like you’re in for a bumpy road.
It’s a good thing you had her wings clipped, but in the future you should not be doing anymore grooming. This will lessen the strain on your relationship with her.
I would start by offering her foods she finds irresistible. Food is a great way to gain her trust and works wonders. Keep in mind, if she was in fact caught, she views humans as monsters. Remember, they caged her and took her away from everything she knew—it’s now time to start over.
Daily, and I do mean daily, sit and read nursery rhymes to her. Talk in a soft and soothing voice. Do this until she no longer fears your presence. A clam African grey will preen, eat, and climb.
If you feel your grey is nervous when you get close to the cage, then take a few steps back or sit across the room while you talk to her. Each day move closer and closer until you can go about your business without a reaction of fear. A nervous grey might hiss and flutter around her cage. Watch for these signs and don’t over do it. Right now you are just trying to let her know that living with you has many benefits—a nice person, food, and security.
After you are confident and SURE she is accepting your presence, open the cage door slowly and back away. Don’t stand and watch her try to get out, but go about your business. Curiosity will get the best of her and she’ll start to explore her world outside her cage. This is good. A night she should return, which then you can close the door.
If she does not return, wait till the night and take a towel and gently place her back into her cage. There should be very little struggle if the lights are out and you should do it very slowly and calmly. Remember, the key is to let her know that she will always be safe. If she grabs the top cage bars firmly, don’t pull her, but gently undo each finger.
As time progress she’ll start to want to interact with you. Be ready and confident. Start working with her by offering a dowel to teach her to step up. (Don’t use your hand. As confident as I am, I sometimes fear the beak of a larger parrot.)
After she has mastered the step ups on the dowel, walk with her a few feet away from the cage while she is on the dowel. Repeat this and push her further and further. The key here is baby steps.
Before you attempt anything with her, think about each step logically and take baby steps. Never force her to do anything she does not want do. If you are patient and work with her—she should come around. And no rush, you have at least 60 or more years to work with her.
Don’t feel like it’s impossible to tame her either. Remember, before parrots were even handfed, they were imported and made good pets too.
Also, my grey was handfed; however, I got him from petco. They choose not to handle him for the first six months of his life so he was not socialized. The poor gray only knew his cage and some food. Thankfully I got him before he matured. He now has a large vocabulary and is very friendly. My situation is much different than yours if yours has been trapped.
Hope this help you better understand your grey too! Work with her for they are marvelous pets!
A few tips.
Always whiste before you enter the room so she know you are entering.
Never look her straight in the eyes.
Take a deep breath before you deal with her.
Move slowly around her cage.
Best wishes,
Imran Chaudhry
It’s a good thing you had her wings clipped, but in the future you should not be doing anymore grooming. This will lessen the strain on your relationship with her.
I would start by offering her foods she finds irresistible. Food is a great way to gain her trust and works wonders. Keep in mind, if she was in fact caught, she views humans as monsters. Remember, they caged her and took her away from everything she knew—it’s now time to start over.
Daily, and I do mean daily, sit and read nursery rhymes to her. Talk in a soft and soothing voice. Do this until she no longer fears your presence. A clam African grey will preen, eat, and climb.
If you feel your grey is nervous when you get close to the cage, then take a few steps back or sit across the room while you talk to her. Each day move closer and closer until you can go about your business without a reaction of fear. A nervous grey might hiss and flutter around her cage. Watch for these signs and don’t over do it. Right now you are just trying to let her know that living with you has many benefits—a nice person, food, and security.
After you are confident and SURE she is accepting your presence, open the cage door slowly and back away. Don’t stand and watch her try to get out, but go about your business. Curiosity will get the best of her and she’ll start to explore her world outside her cage. This is good. A night she should return, which then you can close the door.
If she does not return, wait till the night and take a towel and gently place her back into her cage. There should be very little struggle if the lights are out and you should do it very slowly and calmly. Remember, the key is to let her know that she will always be safe. If she grabs the top cage bars firmly, don’t pull her, but gently undo each finger.
As time progress she’ll start to want to interact with you. Be ready and confident. Start working with her by offering a dowel to teach her to step up. (Don’t use your hand. As confident as I am, I sometimes fear the beak of a larger parrot.)
After she has mastered the step ups on the dowel, walk with her a few feet away from the cage while she is on the dowel. Repeat this and push her further and further. The key here is baby steps.
Before you attempt anything with her, think about each step logically and take baby steps. Never force her to do anything she does not want do. If you are patient and work with her—she should come around. And no rush, you have at least 60 or more years to work with her.
Don’t feel like it’s impossible to tame her either. Remember, before parrots were even handfed, they were imported and made good pets too.
Also, my grey was handfed; however, I got him from petco. They choose not to handle him for the first six months of his life so he was not socialized. The poor gray only knew his cage and some food. Thankfully I got him before he matured. He now has a large vocabulary and is very friendly. My situation is much different than yours if yours has been trapped.
Hope this help you better understand your grey too! Work with her for they are marvelous pets!
A few tips.
Always whiste before you enter the room so she know you are entering.
Never look her straight in the eyes.
Take a deep breath before you deal with her.
Move slowly around her cage.
Best wishes,
Imran Chaudhry
-
Mikaela
- Posts: 3752
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 5:12 am
- Location: Islamorada Key, Florida U.S.A.
- Contact:
I love the male outlook on these birds and taming as opposed to the females outlook.
We, as females have a mothering, maternal nature which makes us what to desperately carress, hold, interact... be loved by our babies.
The guys have the 'chill ladies, we have 30 plus years' attitude. I appreciate this outlook because it keeps us girls grounded and helps us realize today is just one tiny step. Next month will be so much better.
Thanks guys for reminded us ladies that our babies do love us and will ONE day be tame and loving.
Anyone else notice that the guys are FAR less sensitive about time in regards to taming? And quess what ladies *looks around to make sure none of the guys are listening* They want to hold and kiss their babies as bad as we do!
We, as females have a mothering, maternal nature which makes us what to desperately carress, hold, interact... be loved by our babies.
The guys have the 'chill ladies, we have 30 plus years' attitude. I appreciate this outlook because it keeps us girls grounded and helps us realize today is just one tiny step. Next month will be so much better.
Thanks guys for reminded us ladies that our babies do love us and will ONE day be tame and loving.
Anyone else notice that the guys are FAR less sensitive about time in regards to taming? And quess what ladies *looks around to make sure none of the guys are listening* They want to hold and kiss their babies as bad as we do!
~ Mikaela Sky
Thanks for all of the advice.
There is no fear of Chook being squashed. he makes sure that he gets a good position and if you dare get too close he squaks at you to let you know your'e invading his space. I think his biggest problem is that he is just not a morning bird He was fine over the weekend just gone. No lunging except when I pulled back the covers to get up. He wanted to keep sleeping. 
I also forgot to mention that when he lunges he makes a little hissing noise.
There is no fear of Chook being squashed. he makes sure that he gets a good position and if you dare get too close he squaks at you to let you know your'e invading his space. I think his biggest problem is that he is just not a morning bird
He was fine over the weekend just gone. No lunging except when I pulled back the covers to get up. He wanted to keep sleeping. I also forgot to mention that when he lunges he makes a little hissing noise.