Hi again.
I suggest you have a look at Pamela Clark's instructions for converting a bird to a new diet. Regardless of whether you choose to follow the instructions, the article is very informative and you will surely pick up some useful tips.
http://www.parrothouse.com/pamelaclark/ ... anion.html
If Miss NoName is not motivated by food, my thinking is that either something is taking a greater importance than food for her (such as surviving what she perceives as a dangerous environment) or else the food offered just doesn't ring the bell for her. Ask me to do something, anything, for the bribe of broccoli and I may laugh at you. Make the same request for fresh red bell peppers, and you may see action. Additionally, if I've been snacking all day, you may get no action from your bribe because I'm well satisfied from snacks. For me to act you might have to raise the value of the food all the way to fresh melon or even ice cream. And so it is for Miss NoName.
Since you have other birds, you probably already know this, but I remind you as it seems you may have forgotten it for the moment.
Determine her favourite food and place that in the easiest of foraging toys. You may need to start off by letting her see the food go into the dish and just placing a quarter of a Kleenex over the food. She may not forage if she has to learn how, so take baby steps and make it easy for her. If she loves sunflower seeds, then those are a natural for the foraging food, BUT do not cut them out of her diet until you see her reliably eating the other foods or else she might just starve to death. By all means, let your other birds model their good eating habits for her. I'm sure it will help a lot.
It's good for her to come out, and she doesn't need to step up for that. All she needs for coming out is to know that the food she wants comes from the dish she recognizes. It's a simple matter of letting her out before breakfast and then serving breakfast INSIDE the cage, with you keeping an eye out so you can shut the door when she goes home. Don't stand BY the door, however, or you might spook her from returning. Note, it is simple but not quick. Let her out only when you have plenty of time for her to choose to come back in. Do not chase or catch her for return to the cage. Do not engage in any activity that leads her to bite you. She's clearly not ready. Also, protect her by covering the cages of the other birds. She will likely want to go investigate them and they will likely investigate her right back. If they investigate her too closely she could lose a toe.
CERTAINLY change her cage ASAP. The primary danger in bars she can get her head through is getting her head through, getting scared, getting the head stuck, and breaking the neck while flailing about in a panic. If you do some shopping, especially on internet, you will surely find a larger cage with suitable bar spacing. For example, this is my cage:
http://www.birdscomfort.com/doubleflight_bird_cage.html I do not believe a smaller cage will help her step up faster. I believe it will help her bite more. As you approach her in the smaller cage she has little option of where to go to flee from you. You are familiar with the idea of "flight or fight", are you not? If you subtract the option for flight, what does that leave you?
I urge you to excuse the idea of getting the bird to do things "faster". If you make the conditions optimal, you will be able to set the bird at ease so she can come to you willingly. IRNs have a reputation of being hand shy. Forcing them to confront the hand is not going to go well for either of you. Use bribery instead. For bribery you will need a firm idea of what constitutes a bribe *for her*. So, get to offering a variety of delicious foods and see what comes of it.
MUCH too small. For heaven's sake, my CANARY is in a bigger cage. (BY the way, I own that exact cage in a larger size and it is utter trash.)
