Monogamists?
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Monogamists?
I've been reading a bit, and came over something interesting. Is it true that the ringnecks aren't monogamists( or however that is spelled)? And in that case, can I use different birds to breed with? Like, one time I'll use the green hen and the blue cock, and another time the same green hen with another male?
The vast majority of breeding ringnecks will not bond to specific mate. So you are right, they are not monogamous per se.
You can swap their partners every breeding season. A friend of mine even swaps his IRNs during the breeding season even after a clutch of eggs has already been laid.
Although IRNs will shamelessly flirt with other IRNs on adjacent cages, it may be a good idea to put the IRNs in a cage where they cannot see their previous partners. Otherwise, it will take longer for them to mate with their current partners.
You can swap their partners every breeding season. A friend of mine even swaps his IRNs during the breeding season even after a clutch of eggs has already been laid.
Although IRNs will shamelessly flirt with other IRNs on adjacent cages, it may be a good idea to put the IRNs in a cage where they cannot see their previous partners. Otherwise, it will take longer for them to mate with their current partners.
I currently have five breeding pairs of ringnecks and I plan to house them as pairs year-round.
Some breeders separate the males and the females during the off-season and put them in large flight cages. Yet other breeders put all the males and females in one large flight cage. This makes it easier to feed and care for them since you will only be maintaining one or two cages.
The key thing to watch is for any changes you make in the living arrangements of your birds, watch them closely for a few days to make sure that no bird or group of birds is attacking anyone.
Hope that helps.
Some breeders separate the males and the females during the off-season and put them in large flight cages. Yet other breeders put all the males and females in one large flight cage. This makes it easier to feed and care for them since you will only be maintaining one or two cages.
The key thing to watch is for any changes you make in the living arrangements of your birds, watch them closely for a few days to make sure that no bird or group of birds is attacking anyone.
Hope that helps.
Clipping wings serves a good purpose for pets or for IRNs being tamed. But in my humble opinion, clipping a breeder IRN's wing should be done as a last resort.
A breeding IRN used to flying will have to recover from the trauma of wing clipping and compounded by the inability to fly, she'll be very uncomfortable. Uncomfortable IRNs will not breed.
None of the established breeders whom I know clip any of their breeding IRNs under any circumstance.
A breeding IRN used to flying will have to recover from the trauma of wing clipping and compounded by the inability to fly, she'll be very uncomfortable. Uncomfortable IRNs will not breed.
None of the established breeders whom I know clip any of their breeding IRNs under any circumstance.
Hello,
I must disagee with you on the clipping breeder hens wings.Some of the largest breeders of ringnecks that I have talked with always clip their hens wings. Many times when male is ready to breed and a female is not that female will lunge ,chase ,or do anything she can to get the male. I have seen females KILL males that have been with them several weeks. Always clip females wing when breeding season starts.I have bred ringnecks for many years and have seen females that have bred with a male in the past turn and rip the back of the males head off the next year.
As with keeping them in the same cage year round. That is only good if you do not plan on seperating the pairs. If after several years you plan on changing mates it is VERY difficult to pair them back with another mate if they have been together for a long time. The reason we keep males and females seperate is because this year I may breed with one mate and the next year another.
Kenny Ray
http.www.raysaviary.com
I must disagee with you on the clipping breeder hens wings.Some of the largest breeders of ringnecks that I have talked with always clip their hens wings. Many times when male is ready to breed and a female is not that female will lunge ,chase ,or do anything she can to get the male. I have seen females KILL males that have been with them several weeks. Always clip females wing when breeding season starts.I have bred ringnecks for many years and have seen females that have bred with a male in the past turn and rip the back of the males head off the next year.
As with keeping them in the same cage year round. That is only good if you do not plan on seperating the pairs. If after several years you plan on changing mates it is VERY difficult to pair them back with another mate if they have been together for a long time. The reason we keep males and females seperate is because this year I may breed with one mate and the next year another.
Kenny Ray
http.www.raysaviary.com
Thanks for the insight Skray. I always value the input from a more seasoned breeder. I've set up five pairs of IRNs this year and have not clipped any single female. I have had not one single attack and had three successful clutches so far and two more working the nest. So is hen clipping the rule rather than the exception? I don't know but I tend to lean toward the latter. Like I said in my post, it is my humble opinion, based on what I have observed and also based on what I have learned from other breeders. It is for that reason that I said it should be done as last resort if one desperately needs to have that pairing.
Yes you are right. You could go either way as for clipping. To me I like to be safe when it comes to the males. I have had some bad experiences with ringnecks killing each other. I have one female that has been with 3 differant males and she has killed 2 of the 3. One of them was a $1000.00 male a few years ago. This is what I have been told when it comes to clipping and it has always worked for me. I have put females with males together. They have been fine for weeks and then I would later step away and return to find that the male was completely out of breath and panting where the female had just about worn him down where she could catch and kill him. I do have one particular pair that I could probably keep then together year round but I would keep a close eye on them.
I am glad you were able to produce several babies this year. I look forward to hearing from you later. We can always learn from each other and I value your advice.
Kenny Ray
http://www.raysaviary.com
I am glad you were able to produce several babies this year. I look forward to hearing from you later. We can always learn from each other and I value your advice.
Kenny Ray
http://www.raysaviary.com
Hi again Skray.
I've heard this one notorious breeder from Texas who has a violet hen kill at least two violet males. Talk about thousands of dollars worth of dead birds
Really, I feel sorrier for the dead birds more than the breeder.
When I get to upgrade birds up to your level, I will almost surely will clip as a precautionary measure.
So what did you get out of your Greygreen/Blue x Turquoise hatch? They should have pinned by now, April 1 hatch right?. Post some pictures when you have the time
I've heard this one notorious breeder from Texas who has a violet hen kill at least two violet males. Talk about thousands of dollars worth of dead birds
Really, I feel sorrier for the dead birds more than the breeder.
When I get to upgrade birds up to your level, I will almost surely will clip as a precautionary measure.
So what did you get out of your Greygreen/Blue x Turquoise hatch? They should have pinned by now, April 1 hatch right?. Post some pictures when you have the time
Hey bonjoram,
The grey green/blue male to the turquoise hen triple clutched for me this year. Out of the first clutch I got a grey, blue, and a green. The second clutch was a blue and a green and the last clutch was two blues a grey and a green. That pair has the ability to produce all of those colors and turquoise and turquoise grey. Last year they threw a turquoise but this year they did not. I am still waiting for a turquoise grey.
If you go under the breeding section under courting ringneck photos you will see pictures of this pair. I have already sold every baby that I have produced this year.
I have been looking at some of your photos you have posted. You have some nice birds.
I have a friend that when he bought his first violet green many years ago for $10,000 he got two babies out of it and a snake got in and killed it. Luckily one of the babies was a violet.
Kenny Ray
http://www.raysaviary.com
The grey green/blue male to the turquoise hen triple clutched for me this year. Out of the first clutch I got a grey, blue, and a green. The second clutch was a blue and a green and the last clutch was two blues a grey and a green. That pair has the ability to produce all of those colors and turquoise and turquoise grey. Last year they threw a turquoise but this year they did not. I am still waiting for a turquoise grey.
If you go under the breeding section under courting ringneck photos you will see pictures of this pair. I have already sold every baby that I have produced this year.
I have been looking at some of your photos you have posted. You have some nice birds.
I have a friend that when he bought his first violet green many years ago for $10,000 he got two babies out of it and a snake got in and killed it. Luckily one of the babies was a violet.
Kenny Ray
http://www.raysaviary.com
Thankfully, all my pairs like each other 
I have however, had an agressive hen, she would fly at the Cock and attack him in my air. He eventually started to figh back because he wanted to mate with her. So he turned out to be the agressive bird. They almost killed each other a few times. In the end she let him mate with her but she never produced any eggs.
Looking back, i should have given the Cock a light clip just to slow him down.
Other than that, none of my pairs fight and they all breed well. I might put the boxes in a little earlier this season, they are already feeding each other and all the Cocks are displaying.
All my pairs are kept in the same aviary year after year. I do not swap pairs around as i do not have any of the rarer mutation and don't plan on breeding them. The price of Ringnecks is plummeting rapidly in Australia and there is no point in me buying a Violet Blue for $4000 to find out that they are only worth $1000 by then end of the season. Such a waste of money
I have however, had an agressive hen, she would fly at the Cock and attack him in my air. He eventually started to figh back because he wanted to mate with her. So he turned out to be the agressive bird. They almost killed each other a few times. In the end she let him mate with her but she never produced any eggs.
Looking back, i should have given the Cock a light clip just to slow him down.
Other than that, none of my pairs fight and they all breed well. I might put the boxes in a little earlier this season, they are already feeding each other and all the Cocks are displaying.
All my pairs are kept in the same aviary year after year. I do not swap pairs around as i do not have any of the rarer mutation and don't plan on breeding them. The price of Ringnecks is plummeting rapidly in Australia and there is no point in me buying a Violet Blue for $4000 to find out that they are only worth $1000 by then end of the season. Such a waste of money
It's amazing how prices have come down. My Grey Green Pallid hen apparently cost $2000 when my friend bought it as a juvenile 6 years ago. I snagged if from him for the bargain price of $180. Another breeder recently offered me $1000 a pop for Hillerman Pieds and Cobalt chicks. I declined since I don't think they will be worth that much by the time they start breeding 2-3 years from now. For now, I'm quite content with my Solids, Cinnamons, and Pallids.
Starting next year, I'll probably keep most of my pairings intact for the next 2 years just so I can maximize the mutations that I can pull from them.
I have the following pairings currently planned for next season.
Cinnamon Turquoise Grey x Green Cinnamon/Blue
Grey Pallid x Lutino/Turquoise
Turquoise Pallid-Ino x Green Pallid/Blue
I'm still looking for a Grey/Pallid/Cinnamon cock for my other Cinnamon/Blue hen. Jeremy got me thinking about some Skyblue and and Silver Pallids.
It's been a pleasure picking your brains again Skray and Jeremy.
Starting next year, I'll probably keep most of my pairings intact for the next 2 years just so I can maximize the mutations that I can pull from them.
I have the following pairings currently planned for next season.
Cinnamon Turquoise Grey x Green Cinnamon/Blue
Grey Pallid x Lutino/Turquoise
Turquoise Pallid-Ino x Green Pallid/Blue
I'm still looking for a Grey/Pallid/Cinnamon cock for my other Cinnamon/Blue hen. Jeremy got me thinking about some Skyblue and and Silver Pallids.
It's been a pleasure picking your brains again Skray and Jeremy.
You will have a small chance of producing these birds.
Crossover between Cinnamon and Pallid is about 3% i think.
I think you should go for it as it would be interesting to see, but then again, most of the experts advise against breeding Cinnamon-Pallids because they will be very similar to a Pallid in colouring.
I can't really imagine what colour a Cinnamon Grey Pallid would be, but i am guessing it will look almost identical to a Grey Pallid.
You should have got 2 Cobalt's and bred some Mauve's
But like you said, the price will be down a lot by the end of the season
Crossover between Cinnamon and Pallid is about 3% i think.
I think you should go for it as it would be interesting to see, but then again, most of the experts advise against breeding Cinnamon-Pallids because they will be very similar to a Pallid in colouring.
I can't really imagine what colour a Cinnamon Grey Pallid would be, but i am guessing it will look almost identical to a Grey Pallid.
You should have got 2 Cobalt's and bred some Mauve's
But like you said, the price will be down a lot by the end of the seasonJeremy,
It would be interesting to see a Cinnamon Grey Pallid.
I have always like the pallids myself but have never bred any.
A mutation I would like to work with is the opaline.I would love to produce a visual violet opaline.But where I am a green split opaline is $1000.00.A visual blue opaline is $2000.That hurts!!!
Kenny Ray
http://www.raysaviary.com
It would be interesting to see a Cinnamon Grey Pallid.
I have always like the pallids myself but have never bred any.
A mutation I would like to work with is the opaline.I would love to produce a visual violet opaline.But where I am a green split opaline is $1000.00.A visual blue opaline is $2000.That hurts!!!
Kenny Ray
http://www.raysaviary.com
I think I actually have 25% chance of getting Silver Pallid hens and 25% Skyblue Pallid hens if I bred Silver/Pallid Cock or Grey Pallid/Cinnamon Cock with a Blue hen. Slightly less chance when using a Grey/Cinnamon/Pallid at 24.25%
With my Cinnamon/Blue hen ... cut that another half on the probability. Maybe with induced triple clutching/fostering I can get the probability up.
I'm definitely going for it if I can find any of the above three cocks.
With my Cinnamon/Blue hen ... cut that another half on the probability. Maybe with induced triple clutching/fostering I can get the probability up.
I'm definitely going for it if I can find any of the above three cocks.
It does seem that simple but you must remember, in order to breed Cinnamon-Pallid you have to have a crossover. The crossover for the Cinnamon and Pallid genes is 3%. Unless you actually have a Cinnamon-Pallid to work with, you will have a very slim chance of producing them.
But 3% is just a number, it really all happens by chance. Who knows, the first baby hatched could be a Cinnamon Grey Pallid
Kenny, i have seen pictures of Opalines and aren't that keen on them. Are there any good websites with clear pictures of them?
But 3% is just a number, it really all happens by chance. Who knows, the first baby hatched could be a Cinnamon Grey Pallid
Kenny, i have seen pictures of Opalines and aren't that keen on them. Are there any good websites with clear pictures of them?
Here's a site showing a good representation of the Opaline series ...
http://home.wanadoo.nl/psittaculaworld/ ... paline.htm
http://home.wanadoo.nl/psittaculaworld/ ... paline.htm
Jeremy wrote:It does seem that simple but you must remember, in order to breed Cinnamon-Pallid you have to have a crossover. The crossover for the Cinnamon and Pallid genes is 3%.
I'd be interested to know how they came up with 3%. This color breeding thing has become a passion for me. I haven't had a hobby so interesting in quite some time.
I've even ordered Bastiaan's book and looking into acquiring a supposed breeding manual by Deon Smith and from a certain Dr. Martin.
Any other suggested readings you guys recommend?
Dr Terry Martin's book is a good one. A Guide to Colour Mutations and Genetics in Parrots
In order to get a Cinnamon-Pallid, you need to have a crossover. A crossover is when 2 sex linked genes are situated on the same chromosome. The chances of these crossovers are generally quite small.
Cinnamon-Pallid = 3%
Cinnamon-Ino = 3%
Cinnamon-Opaline = 33%
Ino-Opaline = 30%
In order to get a Cinnamon-Pallid, you need to have a crossover. A crossover is when 2 sex linked genes are situated on the same chromosome. The chances of these crossovers are generally quite small.
Cinnamon-Pallid = 3%
Cinnamon-Ino = 3%
Cinnamon-Opaline = 33%
Ino-Opaline = 30%
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Tintin_Montreal
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skray wrote:Jeremy,
It would be interesting to see a Cinnamon Grey Pallid.
I have always like the pallids myself but have never bred any.
A mutation I would like to work with is the opaline.I would love to produce a visual violet opaline.But where I am a green split opaline is $1000.00.A visual blue opaline is $2000.That hurts!!!
Kenny Ray
http://www.raysaviary.com
Hey Jeremy & Every Birdie,
just as the Cinnamon mutation should never be crossed to any Fallow mutations ; the Cinnamon & Pallid mutations should not be crossed either ! That just doesn't make any sense. Both mutations display very similar alterations and so whenever combined in a combo produces specimens which are again very similar to their parents and very hard to precisely classify genetically.
It just doesn't make any sense to cross a Pink Rose to another Pink Rose. What make sense is to cross a White Rose to a Red Rose to produce Pink Roses.
In the end it all comes down to personal preference.
I, myself, breed Turquoise Pallid-Ino Peachface Lovebirds. According to show standards, this is a bad combination and would most likely be laughed at Personally, i prefer the Turquoise Pallid-Ino's over the Turquoise Pallids anyday. Why? because they are much more vibrant in colour and their flight feathers are lighter.
So while combining genes that work similarly is shunned upon the show communtiy, I personally believe that some of the combinations are quite beautiful and very worthwhile breeding.
I would much rather see a Cinnamon Grey Pallid Ringneck than a Grey Pallid. A much nicer and lighter bird. But everyone has their own opinions and everyone likes to breed different mutations.
I, myself, breed Turquoise Pallid-Ino Peachface Lovebirds. According to show standards, this is a bad combination and would most likely be laughed at
Personally, i prefer the Turquoise Pallid-Ino's over the Turquoise Pallids anyday. Why? because they are much more vibrant in colour and their flight feathers are lighter.
So while combining genes that work similarly is shunned upon the show communtiy, I personally believe that some of the combinations are quite beautiful and very worthwhile breeding.
I would much rather see a Cinnamon Grey Pallid Ringneck than a Grey Pallid. A much nicer and lighter bird. But everyone has their own opinions and everyone likes to breed different mutations.